A refrigerator that is not cooling usually has an airflow problem, not a refrigerant problem. Dirty condenser coils, a failed fan motor, or a frozen evaporator coil cause most warm-refrigerator calls, and several of these causes take only minutes to check.
This guide covers 12 causes of a refrigerator not cooling, which ones you can check yourself, what each repair costs in San Diego, and a section on Frigidaire refrigerators. Bonita Appliance Repair repairs refrigerators from every major brand in Bonita, Chula Vista, National City, and across San Diego County.
Start here: the 5-minute checklist
Quick checklist
- Check that the temperature control was not turned to a warmer setting.
- Listen for the compressor and fans. Silence with the light on points to a control or compressor problem.
- Pull the refrigerator out and vacuum the condenser coils.
- Move food away from the air vents in the freezer and fresh-food sections.
- Close each door on a dollar bill. If the bill slides out easily, the gasket is not sealing.
Still warm after 24 hours? A fan motor, the defrost system, or the start relay has likely failed. See the causes below.
What temperature should a refrigerator be?
The U.S. Food and Drug Administration recommends keeping the refrigerator at or below 40°F and the freezer at 0°F (Are You Storing Food Safely?, FDA). Put an appliance thermometer in a glass of water on the middle shelf to check the real temperature, since the dial on the control is only a setting.
While you troubleshoot, keep the doors closed as much as possible. Move milk, meat, and leftovers to a cooler with ice if the fresh-food section rises above 40°F.
Match the symptom to the cause
| What you notice | Most likely causes |
|---|---|
| Freezer is cold, fresh-food section is warm | Evaporator fan motor, defrost system failure, blocked vents (causes 4, 8, 9) |
| Both sections are warm | Dirty condenser coils, condenser fan motor, start relay, compressor (causes 3, 7, 10) |
| Frost on the back wall of the freezer | Defrost heater, defrost thermostat, or defrost control (cause 9) |
| Clicking every few minutes, compressor will not run | Start relay or compressor (cause 10) |
| Lights work but nothing runs | Showroom mode, temperature control board, or thermistor (causes 1, 11) |
| Warm with all fans and compressor running | Refrigerant leak or sealed-system fault (cause 12) |
Causes you can check yourself
1. The temperature control or showroom mode is set wrong
A control knob bumped by a shelf or a child can raise the temperature several degrees. Some refrigerators with electronic controls, including some Frigidaire, Samsung, and LG models, also have a showroom or demo mode that keeps the lights on with the cooling turned off.
- Set the fresh-food control to the middle setting, or to 37°F on a digital display.
- Look for “demo,” “showroom,” or “OF” on the display. The owner’s manual lists the button combination that turns it off.
2. The outlet or power supply has a problem
A refrigerator plugged into a GFCI outlet, a loose outlet, or an extension cord can lose power or run at low voltage. The light may work while the compressor cannot start.
- Plug the refrigerator directly into a wall outlet, not an extension cord or power strip.
- Check the breaker, and press Reset on any GFCI outlet the refrigerator is plugged into.
3. The condenser coils are dirty
The condenser coils release the heat that the refrigerator removes from the food compartments. A coat of dust and pet hair traps that heat, so the compressor runs longer and the refrigerator warms up.
- Unplug the refrigerator and find the coils, behind the bottom front grille or on the back.
- Brush the coils with a coil brush and vacuum the loosened dust.
- Clean the coils every 6–12 months, or more often if you have pets.
4. Food is blocking the air vents
Most refrigerators make cold air in the freezer and blow it into the fresh-food section through vents. A packed shelf or a bag against a vent stops that airflow.
- Move food at least an inch away from the vents in both sections.
- Avoid packing the freezer so tightly that the fan cannot move air.
5. The door gasket is not sealing
A torn, flattened, or dirty gasket lets warm, humid air in. Signs include sweat on the outside of the cabinet and frost near the door.
- Close the door on a dollar bill at several points. The bill should drag as you pull it out.
- Clean the gasket with warm soapy water, and check that bins or shelves are not holding the door open.
A gasket that is torn or will not seal after cleaning should be replaced with the part made for your model.
6. The refrigerator is too hot or too tight against the wall
Refrigerators need space for air to move around the condenser. A refrigerator in a hot garage or squeezed into a tight cabinet cannot get rid of its heat. Most refrigerators are designed for a room between about 55°F and 110°F; check your manual for your model.
- Leave the clearance the installation instructions specify at the back, top, and sides.
- In a San Diego garage, watch for warm-weather problems in late summer and fall heat waves.
Causes that need a technician
Safety note: Unplug the refrigerator before you clean the coils or remove any panel. Do not chip ice off the evaporator coil with a sharp tool, since a punctured coil leaks refrigerant and usually cannot be repaired.
7. The condenser fan motor has failed
Refrigerators with coils under the cabinet use a condenser fan next to the compressor to pull air across the coils. If the fan stops, the compressor overheats and both sections warm up.
A technician checks the fan for obstructions, tests the motor, and replaces it if it fails.
8. The evaporator fan motor has failed
The evaporator fan blows air across the cold evaporator coil in the freezer and into the fresh-food section. A failed fan leaves the freezer somewhat cold and the fresh-food section warm. A squeal or chirp from the freezer that gets louder when you open the door often points to this fan.
The fan sits behind the freezer’s back panel. A technician removes the panel, tests the motor, and replaces it if needed.
9. The defrost system has failed
Frost-free refrigerators heat the evaporator coil several times a day to melt frost. If the defrost heater, defrost thermostat, or defrost control fails, frost builds up until it blocks airflow. The usual sign is a thick layer of frost on the freezer’s back panel.
Defrosting the refrigerator by hand restores cooling for a few days, but the frost returns until the failed part is replaced.
10. The start relay or compressor has failed
The start relay helps the compressor start. A failed relay causes a click every few minutes as the compressor tries to start and stops. If the relay tests good, the compressor itself may have failed.
Start relays are an inexpensive repair. Compressor replacement is a sealed-system repair and costs much more.
11. The temperature control board or thermistor has failed
Refrigerators with electronic controls use a thermistor, a temperature sensor, to tell the control board when to run the compressor and fans. A failed thermistor or board can stop cooling completely or let the temperature drift.
A technician measures the thermistor’s resistance against the chart for your model before replacing the board.
12. The refrigerant has leaked
A refrigerator that runs constantly with both fans working but stays warm may have a refrigerant leak or a restriction in the sealed system. Refrigerant work requires an EPA Section 608 certified technician.
Sealed-system repairs are the most expensive refrigerator repairs, so it is worth comparing the repair price to the refrigerator’s age before approving the work.
Frigidaire refrigerator not cooling
Frigidaire is an Electrolux brand. Most Frigidaire refrigerators make their cold air in the freezer and use an evaporator fan to move it into the fresh-food section. That design makes the same failures common across the lineup:
- Warm fresh-food section with a cold freezer: evaporator fan motor or a defrost failure that has frozen the coil
- Both sections warm on a model with coils underneath: dirty condenser coils or a failed condenser fan motor
- Display lit but no cooling: showroom mode on some electronic-control models, or a failed main control board
- Clicking from the back with the compressor off: start relay or compressor
Frigidaire refrigerator repairs typically cost $295–$431, with a median of $341. See Frigidaire appliance repair in San Diego for repair prices on other Frigidaire appliances.
How much does refrigerator repair cost in San Diego?
These are typical refrigerator repair prices at Bonita Appliance Repair. The final price depends on your model, the part, and the time the repair takes.
| Repair | Typical price |
|---|---|
| Start relay | $50–$150 |
| Door gasket / seal | $90–$350 |
| Thermostat / temperature control | $100–$350 |
| Condenser or evaporator fan motor | $120–$400 |
| Defrost system (heater, sensor, timer) | $150–$450 |
| Main control board | $200–$900 |
| Sealed system (compressor, refrigerant leak) | $400–$2,800 |
See refrigerator repair in San Diego for the full price list.
Repair or replace your refrigerator?
The National Association of Home Builders puts the average life expectancy of a refrigerator at about 13 years (Study of Life Expectancy of Home Components, NAHB, 2007). Fan motors, defrost parts, gaskets, and start relays are usually worth repairing at any age.
Sealed-system repairs are different. If a refrigerator past about 7 years needs a compressor or refrigerant repair that costs more than half the price of a comparable new model, replacement often makes more sense. Read is it better to repair or replace an appliance for more detail.
When to call a refrigerator repair technician
Call a refrigerator repair technician when:
- The refrigerator is still warm 24 hours after you clean the coils and clear the vents
- You hear clicking from the back and the compressor does not run
- Thick frost covers the freezer’s back panel
- A fan in the freezer squeals, or does not run when the door switch is pressed
- The refrigerator runs constantly and stays warm
Bonita Appliance Repair offers refrigerator repair in San Diego, refrigerator repair in Chula Vista, and freezer repair. We repair Whirlpool, Samsung, LG, GE, Frigidaire, KitchenAid, Sub-Zero, Kenmore, and Maytag refrigerators. A technician diagnoses the fault and explains the repair and its price before any work begins.
Refrigerator not cooling FAQs
Why is my refrigerator not cooling but the freezer is?
A cold freezer with a warm fresh-food section usually means cold air is not moving from the freezer into the refrigerator. The common causes are a failed evaporator fan motor, a defrost failure that has frozen over the evaporator coil, or food blocking the air vents.
How do I reset my refrigerator when it is not cooling?
Unplug the refrigerator or turn off its breaker for five minutes, then restore power and set the control to the middle setting. Give it 24 hours to reach temperature. A reset clears a stuck electronic control, but it does not fix a failed fan, defrost part, or relay.
How long can food stay in a refrigerator that is not cooling?
Perishable food is safe while the refrigerator stays at or below 40°F. If the temperature stays above 40°F for more than two hours, the USDA advises throwing out perishable food such as meat, milk, and leftovers.
Why is my refrigerator clicking and not cooling?
A click every few minutes with the compressor not running usually means the start relay is failing, or the compressor cannot start. A technician tests the relay first, since it is an inexpensive part.
How much does it cost to fix a refrigerator that is not cooling?
At Bonita Appliance Repair, common not-cooling repairs cost $120–$400 for a fan motor, $150–$450 for a defrost repair, and $50–$150 for a start relay. Sealed-system repairs cost $400–$2,800.
Does Bonita Appliance Repair fix refrigerators in San Diego?
Yes. Bonita Appliance Repair repairs refrigerators and freezers from all major brands in homes across Bonita, Chula Vista, National City, and San Diego County. Call 619-329-5938 or book online.
Book refrigerator repair in San Diego
If your refrigerator is still warm after these checks, Bonita Appliance Repair can find the failed part and explain the repair and its price before any work begins.
Bonita Appliance Repair · 5080 Bonita Rd #22, Bonita, CA 91902 · 619-329-5938
